Salt On The Beach
Restaurant in Perth
David Harfield swings for the title at the dependably impressive Salt On the Beach.
The Rocky franchise didn’t just give the world the most hummable workout theme tune ever, nor did it only place a curse on anyone named, “Adrienne!” whenever their boyfriend calls for them in a crowd; oh no, the rags-to-riches boxing movies also gave us a whole new way to tenderize meat. Now, I’m not saying that the chefs at North Fremantle’s Salt On The Beach are out the back every night wailing on their cuts of beef, Balboa-style; however, they have to have some kind of trick up their sleeve to make their beef as tender as the piece that arrived on my plate at the seafront restaurant.
On our way to the main event, my girlfriend and I make our entrance through the double doors and through the restaurant to the balcony area where we’re sheltered from the surprisingly crisp West Australian evening by the tented exterior, the windows of which offer gorgeous views of ships crossing on the ocean’s moonlit horizon.
The menu is clear and to-the-point, punctuated with cute parenthetical remarks such as ‘(Not your Grandma’s Riesling!)’ after a prestigious white wine and ‘(Cheaper by the dozen…)’ to sway oyster lovers into ordering a few more. We begin the first round with an oyster each, mine done Kilpatrick with a generous topping of crispy bacon shreds that were still warm from the pan.
We then go toe to toe over a large portion of pork belly and scallops, scrapping over the thick wedges of seared pork resting in celeriac purée and using the firm and juicy mollusks to mop up the Lilli Pilly (riberry, a small, sweet pink fruit native to Australia) sauce. Cuts of candied bacon finish off what is a truly outstanding dish.
My pre-match drink was a locally-brewed pale ale, which got things off to a promising start; the final round of pancetta-wrapped beef fillet requires something with a little more legs, however, so I move on to a glass of the Barossa Valley Shiraz, a robust drop that has enough gumption to stand up to the meat-heavy dish. As I mentioned before, the beef itself is achingly tender and the sweet, olive-flecked jus that soaks the wilted spinach and creamed potato bedding is the perfect accompaniment. To be honest, it was so good that I don’t even care if the chefs actually do practice their right hooks on the loins before service.
In the other corner, my girlfriend is grappling with a plate of Sizzling Prawns (actual title) and is mopping up the garlic, chilli and pepper marinade with the tough wedges of crusty bread. The melon-tinged crispness of the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc cuts through the oily dish and an accompanying mound of rocket and Parmesan salad rounds off a very pleasant main course.
The generous portions have us almost out for the count and we ring the bell before dessert knocks us out for good. A little punch-drunk from the delicious blows to the stomach that we have just sustained, we head to the car and make a vow to return for another bout in the not-too-distant future.
David Harfield is a freelance food and travel writer and the director of the social media solutions company PepperStorm Media
Photographs courtesy of Salt On The Beach
|Reviewer's Rating||★ ★ ★ ★ ★|
|Need to book||Advisable|
|Clientele||Locals, families and tourists|
|Restaurant good for||Couples, Families with children, Bar scene, Small groups, Meeting up with friends, Scenic view|
|Cost per head||Expensive|
|Dress Code||Smart Casual|
|Dining Options||Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner|
Incredibly helpful staff.
Sharing a main course starter can trim the bill. Buffet breakfast (Sept to June): Adults $31, kids 5-12 $12, under 5 and they’re free. Salad form $19; Oysters from $3.50; Long Board Share Platter $65; Mains from $25; Pizzas from $19, Kids pizzas from $12; Desserts from $14.
Last updated on 09-05-2014