The Roost at LA Farm
Restaurant in Los Angeles
Rustic Seasonal American Cuisine
True Los Angeles legacies never leave, they rather redefine. Back in the ‘80’s LA Farm was one of those instantaneous pulls for the power lunch or the popping of the question, it fit, and it had that elusive overarching lure.
Skip to 2014, The Roost at LA Farm has cultivated a similar superiority, where celebrations and congregations culminate over ingredient inspired fare and revel within the rustic warmth of a well heeled, well honed, new-fashioned farmhouse.
Can a restaurant be casual in its formality? Answer: yes. Can a restaurant boasting four dedicated dining spaces retain its intimacy? Again yes. The Roost immediately accomplishes that familial, fireside feel. Assuming of course, your uncle was an opening sous chef at Craft and an Executive Chef at Soho House, and your other uncle was a Level III Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers. Not your family? By all counts then, come spend a night with theirs.
Setting aside for a moment the estimable talent that Chef John Keenan brings to the table, The Roost has retained the stalwart status of space creation as alluring for business as it is for pleasure. In an unusually secluded Santa Monica enclave, it tucks in quietly. There’s a private wine room, exuding an intimate elegance, upping the ante of any occasion. The main dining room, with an array of farm tables and warm brown leathers. The Roost Bar Patio, rife with Santa Monica breezes and a warm fire or two, and my personal favourite, The Atrium Dining Room. Ivy lined and floored in Flagstone, this is destination dining beneath the Santa Monica stars. And who are we kidding. Usually seated next to them.
Anchoring fire pits in the atrium warm the room to a soft, chestnut glow. Climbing olive trees and cascading ivy define the room as one to luxuriate in. A how to tip? Try the Trust Johnny. A five or seven course tasting menu, offered with or without wine pairings, is so very much the way to go. Let the creative collaborative force that is Chef John Keenan and GM Anthony Tricanello take you on a culinary tour of their well researched, fine tuned spin on ingredients gone glorious. There is so much that is so worth sampling here, the tasting menu, as executed by a kitchen and a staff blissfully synchronized (we felt not rushed nor prolonged), ties it all in a beautiful, Beaujolais and black truffle bow.
The Rooster won as my top cocktail, with aperol, fino sherry, grapefruit, lemon and honey. But that’s because I love a clean drink. Seasonal celebrators will flock to the Autumn Spritz, that Basque cider and persimmon, hint of cinnamon, easily lets you imbibe November. The Blackberry Cobbler or Bourbon Jam will woo you should you like a little sweet in your tonic.
The coriander in the Hamachi Crudo does something special, as does that smoked pistachio in the avocado and beet salad. The black truffles in the diver sea scallops do not disappoint, and The Roost spin on fish & chips is as fun as I hoped it would be. But my favorite of all palate pleasers had to go to the Lobster Spaghetti. With broccolini, celery, and crème fraiche, it’s the one that calls you back.
If I could insist on wine pairings here, I would. Anthony (he’ll have you call him Tony) Tricanello, with over twenty years of industry service under his belt, is a wine educator amongst other accolades, and letting him lead the way on what flaunts their flavors best, is rewarding to all involved. Let him flaunt his stuff so that you can best enjoy yours.
Chef Keenan and GM Tricanello, a duo of east coast imports, have ignited a legacy longing for new life. LA Farm was no doubt an LA legend. But The Roost, at just three months young, may very well come to rule in its own right.
Jolie Loeb is a Luxury Lifestyle columnist based in Los Angeles
Photographs by The Roost at LA Farm and Jolie Loeb
|Reviewer's Rating||★ ★ ★ ★ ★|
|Clientele||The gamut. Locals to industry regulars. Meat eaters will feast like kings, vegetarian and seafood options are bountiful. Great beverage program.|
|Restaurant good for||Couples, Bar scene, Small groups, Large groups, Doing business, Special occasions|
|Cost per head||High|
|Dress Code||Smart Casual|
|Dining Options||Lunch, Dinner|
Warm, farmhouse feel. A special occasion destination as well as a great bar to hit any night for happy hour.
Bar Fare is a great way to go if you want to keep the cost down. Lunch Starters from $10, Salads from $11, Sandwiches from $13, Mains from $18. Cocktails from $11, Draft Beers from $6, Wine from $9 a glass. You get $2 off all bar bare during Happy Hour.
Last updated on 26-11-2014