A hidden luxury gem in the heart of Piccadilly by Lizzie Lunn

As a child I dreamt of being an actress, looking at the glamorous scenes on the silver screen and wishing I could be a part of them. Now a fully grown adult I’d all but given up hope of joining the Hollywood set – until I dined at The Criterion, Piccadilly, otherwise known as the place Rachel Dawes (Maggie Gyllenhaal) meets Harvey Dent (Aaron Eckhart) for lunch in the blockbuster movie, Batman Begins.

The Criterion Restaurant is a long-standing byword for opulence and luxury on the London restaurant scene. Originally opened in 1874, this Grade II listed building reopened in May 2009 having undergone a gentle restoration, with all original stunning features remaining intact.  Indeed, it is the original features – together with the food – which make The Criterion a ‘must-visit’ restaurant for ‘foodies’ in the capital. The gilded ceilings, marble floors and mirrored walls make one feel as if they have entered a room fit for royalty – it’s the gold mosaic that does it.

And what does the food ‘do’? Well, following complimentary oysters courtesy of the chef, my starter of asparagus with poached egg and hollandaise sauce – one of my favourite dishes – was cooked to perfection. Delightfully, every aspect of the dish met my expectations and beyond – in fact, I could have eaten it again for my main. As luck would have it, the main dish I had chosen of Cornish cod, sautéed potatoes, ratatouille, queen scallops and prawn beurre blanc was just as appetizing. Tip of the day: forget your no card diet. The homemade bread offered on side would be simply sinful to waste.  It is perhaps testament to the delicious food that this wine lover has yet to mention the beverages aspect of dining at The Criterion. With champagne served upon my arrival, and a refreshing Pinot Grigio to whet my appetite though my main – I think it’s fair to say I had absolutely no complaints – and all this before I even mention dessert.

Yes, for this Goldilocks, Grigio loving lady, the ‘cocktail of sorbets’ was simply too good to pass up. On paper, it sounded like a refreshing end to a very pleasantly filling meal. Once in front of me, it was quite the feast. For a restaurant so luxuriously decadent, an appealing aspect of The Criterion is that the portions are not only worth the money in taste, but size too. As I dipped my spoon between flavoured scoops of coffee liqueur, gin and vodka, the dessert refreshed me as I hoped, but more in the way that I now felt more like sampling the actual cocktail list… then ever returning to the office.

As is always the case after a three-course meal in a fine dining establishment, coffees were subsequently enjoyed and again, being a girlie girl, the toilets were visited. Maybe I have strange priorities, but I’ve been known to completely change my mind on the desirability of a venue having been disappointed by the facilities. At The Criterion, there was no such about turn, with a low-lit, ornately tiled and decadently mirrored suite on offer in which to freshen up, before returning to the aforementioned office.

On its website, The Criterion claims its guests are ‘transported from the bustle of Piccadilly Circus into an opulence and glamour of another era’. I would have to say, on this occasion indeed I was. I can hope only next time there is no imminent return to the office. After all… ignoring a cocktail list once – shame on my boss. Ignoring a cocktail list twice – shame on me.

An excellent set lunch and pre and post theatre menu is available at a very reasonable £18 for two courses, £22 for three.  All the food is freshly delivered every day from farmers carefully selected around the country (the majority being free range) contributing to the seasonal menu which changes daily, although signature dishes are always available.  The Sunday Roast is especially popular from £25.00 for two courses, £30.00 for three.  Afternoon Tea runs from Thursday to Sundays between 2:30pm and 4:00pm and the Criterion Long Bar has a wonderful menu with cocktails starting at £8.50 whilst all special ‘Criterion’ cocktails are priced at £9.50.  There is a comprehensive international wine list with some 170 bins and many available by the glass or half bottle.  They have live jazz and Swing music Friday to Sunday evenings.